How do 160 transplanted “suburban” vines become the foundation for one of the most highly decorated wineries in the State? Only by adding passion, love, care and commitment; please let me explain.
Prior to 1986, Al and Cheryl Kellert lived in a quiet Northern Virginia suburb. Both had an academic and recreational interest in wine growing that led them to plant their first vineyard in their backyard. As their knowledge and experience in viticulture grew, they recognized they could not grow beyond their little backyard. After an exhaustive (aren’t they all) two year search they found property in Rappahannock County that was ideally suited to their needs, even if it had not previously been used for vineyards.
After replanting the original 160 vines from their suburban vineyard, the family set about renovating a 13 stall horse stable into a winery and planting a few more vines every year. Today, Gray Ghost cultivates over 8,800 vines on thirteen acres with such varietals as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Riesling, Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc.
As the vineyard operation grew, the Kellerts’ reputation for high quality fruit grew as well. By 1992, almost all of the fruit produced on the property was being sold to award winning wineries across the region.
Not content to be only a high end grower, the Kellerts continued their efforts to convert the stable into a working winery. They made a grand bet by retaining all the fruit from the 1993 vintage for their new winery dream.
By working as their own contractor, the family was able to put the sweat equity into the project that allowed the doors on Gray Ghost to open in July of 1994. While much has changed since the ’94 opening, including additional vineyards, expanded tasting room, underground barrel storage, one thing has not changed the personal stake the Kellert family puts into each bottle of Gray Ghost.
Gray Ghost believes in gently caring for the wine to allow the fruit to reach its true potential. Each and every vine is personally pruned by Cheryl. All of their fruit is hand picked and destemmed. The fruit then goes on an “elevator” (think of an inclined sorting table) so any questionable clusters can be removed. Then the fruit is gently squeezed “never crushed” according to Al, by their state of the art bladder press. As a family owned and operated venture, every bottle that leaves the winery has been touched by Al in the winemaking and packaging process. Al is also understandably proud that the 2011 vintage 100% of the wine produced will be estate grown.
Why the Gray Ghost name? The winery is located at the very Southern end of what was known as Mosby’s Confederacy in the Civil War. Colonel John S. Mosby has often been credited with extending the life of the Confederacy by over six months by raiding Union positions and generally creating as much chaos as possible. His command, the 43rd Battalion, 1st Virginia Cavalry, known as Mosby's Rangers or Mosby's Raiders, was a partisan ranger unit noted for its lightning quick raids and its ability to elude Union Army pursuers and disappear, blending in with local farmers and townsmen.
Due to Mosby’s troublesome military activities, General US Grant was compelled to dispatch 25,000 troops lessening the Union forces for the penultimate battle with General Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia. General Grant feared the Mosby Rangers might eventually raid Washington DC itself.
The Rangers ability to infiltrate Union lines without detection lead to Mosby’s Union given nickname the “Gray Ghost”. While Confederate Rangers in Missouri, Tennessee, West Virginia, Georgia and Kentucky were also given this moniker, none achieved Mosby’s level of notoriety. Mosby’s final resting place is just a few miles up the road in Warrenton Cemetery.
Another rather new addition is the wine library. Elegant and understated, the library contains verticals of most of Grey Ghost’s vintages. Each June, the winery hosts a black tie optional library event. 2012 will feature a vertical tasting of Gray Ghost Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve starting with the 1993.
The tasting room at Gray Ghost has been expanded at least twice in the last ten years. Today, there is an elegant tasting “loft” with leather couches and comfy chairs to enjoy a glass of wine and the company of friends. The tasting bar is open and friendly; I tasted with Al and Cheryl’s daughter Amy Payette, who serves as the Director of Marketing for the operation.
The 2010 Chardonnay was fermented and aged in French Allier oak and features vanilla notes on the nose. The midpalate opens slightly to reveal elements of peach and pear. The finish is clean but lingers ever so slightly.
Conversely, the 2010 Reserve Chardonnay is done in all new oak resulting in a fuller bodied more rounded mouth feel. Completing a full malolactic fermentation in barrel results in a buttery texture and long lingering finish with round tannins.
Gray Ghost’s Victorian White is a100% Chardonnay but is finished in a sweeter style. With 1.8 residual sugar this wine features lemongrass highlights and a rich surprisingly complex mouthfeel.
The 2010 vintage of the Gray Ghost Merlot featured less time in oak than I generally prefer, but the wine is most interesting. The reduced oak exposure resulted in a more fruit forward attack with bright cherry highlights and light tannins. The finish is equally bright with an outstanding balance of acid to fruit.
Gray Ghost’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon includes 1% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc while the fruit on the front of the palate is similar to the merlot it is a touch more subtle with under currents of plum and currants. Bottled as an unfiltered wine, time has smoothed the edges of the flavor profile.
Adieu is one of my favorite named wines in all of Virginia wine. A late harvest Vidal the grapes hang an extra 7 weeks than the balance of the Vidal. The resultant wine is a viscose treat with peach, pear and Muscat notes. Served with white cheese or a big fat cigar it is a perfect dessert wine.
In seventeen short work filled years, the Kellert family has grown a few transplanted vines into a true destination winery. At Gray Ghost, the future is very bright indeed.
Neil Williamson is the Chairman of the Virginia Wine Club Tasting Panel and Editor of The Virginia Wine Journal. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
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