People give me a puzzled look when I talk of Helvetia – “Hel-what? Where in the world is that? Whenever I share with people about my travels to Helvetia, West Virginia a feeling of serenity and a soft smile lightens up my face. It is a place of old world charm where I have enjoyed friendships that have developed over the years. It is known today for maintaining Swiss traditions, food, and folkways. Helvetia is a small Swiss village in a high mountain valley located 244 miles west of the DC metro area and southwest of Elkins, WV in Randolph County. Tucked away in the highlands of the Appalachian Mountains on the Buckhannon River, this isolated community was settled by Swiss and German immigrants who came by way of Brooklyn, New York in 1869. The town was settled by farmers, herdsmen, craftsmen and professionals. Later, groups arriving from Switzerland and other parts of the U. S. boosted the population to 308! As of the 2010 census, its population was 59. A few times every year I make the trek from wherever I am living to the small community where the values are friendship, cooperation, eating good food and having a good time.
The first festival of the year and my favorite is called Fasnacht - the last feast before Lent. It is a wildly pagan, pre-Lenten festival started by the villagers in 1875. Celebrated for over 130 years, it is named after the biggest carnival in Switzerland and is likened to Fat Tuesday. This Swiss Mardi Gras takes place on Saturday, February 18. The highlight of the festival is the masks that festivalgoers make and wear. For many who attend, Fasnacht is the culmination of months of crafting their costume out of paper mache and elaborate wire constructions fueled, in part, by the chance to compete with their extraordinarily inventive peers and for a prize. For others, their costume is impromptu, fashioned at the last minute from whatever is at-hand that will transform them for the night as they hide their true selves to become, for a few liberating hours, someone else. Anything goes! Bigger is better. There are no official rules for mask making as long as it is made to scare away old man winter!
The festivities get under way on Saturday afternoon at 3:00 pm at the Star Band (Red) Hall for open mic music where guests are invited to participate between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. The Hutte, the only restaurant in town, is serving a buffet dinner of authentic Swiss and German food. Guests will be entertained by belly dancers this year. Reservations are recommended and may be made by calling (304) 924-6435.You can also browse in the local shops for locally made pottery, paintings and other handmade gifts celebrating the Helvetia culture.
The Lampion (candlelight) Parade begins at 8 pm. Masqueraders gather at the Red Hall and light candles in their lampions and march through the street to the other side of town to the Community Hall where onlookers are cheering and taking photos. They enter into the hall and dance around, showing off their creativity to the crowd. From 8:45 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., the masks are judged by local organizers and the coveted prizes are hand-made Swiss flags for best costumes. At 9:00 pm the Masquerade Ball begins. The Helvetia Star Band, comprised of local musicians provides music for the dance. People of all ages square dance and polka. Refreshments, including rosettes and homemade doughnuts, are served throughout the dance. Admission to the dance is $10 for adults, $5 for students and no charge for children younger than school age.
At 11:00 p.m., the bonfire that will burn up “old man winter” is set ablaze outside. At the stroke of midnight the effigy of Old Man Winter hanging from the rafters is cut down by a girl on the tallest man’s shoulders and carried out by celebrants to the bonfire outside in order to signal the end of winter. Afterward you can enjoy more music in the Red Hall or in private houses into the wee hours of Sunday.
During your visit to Fasnacht, venture over to The Kultur Haus Helvetia which is located across from the Red Hall. It houses the new mask museum where masks from Fasnacht’s past are on display. You will cross paths with the late Robert C. Byrd, Old Man Winter’s widow, local characters and perhaps a monster or two. The Kultur Haus is a nonprofit organization created by the community in 2011 and serves as a new venue to showcase and celebrate the town’s history and culture. It is a meeting place for locals and visitors, selling basic sundries, t-shirts, locally harvested maple syrup, honey, handmade soaps, locally produced jams and preserves. Visitors have Wi-Fi access and can research materials on Helvetia history and genealogy. Open seven days a week, the building also houses the General Store, the Post Office and the Alpena Lodge, which is currently under renovation. The Alpena Lodge provides sleeping rooms with kitchen privileges (304) 924-9100. Other accommodations can be found at The Beekeeper Inn (304) 924-6435 and the Hutte.
Fasnacht is a great time to cure your winter blues and celebrate the coming of spring. More wonderful and magical things will be revealed about Helvetia once you have the pleasure of exploring this hidden gem in the mountain state. Bring your friends and family and experience it for yourselves. You will want to return there during another season and enjoy the town’s beautiful scenery and participate in its other authentic events: Annual Ramp Supper, Fourth of July Celebration, Helvetia Fall Fair, Swiss National Day and First Saturday Square Dance occurring monthly at the Community Hall. For more information log on to their website at www.helvetiawv.com. I hope to see you there and guess which mask I am wearing!
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