Over the years, I have visited Barboursville vineyards on countless occasions, so it was with some surprise at my high level of anticipation as I turned off Route 20 and neared the entrance to the Orange County winery.  On this autumn Sunday, the leaves were still falling off the trees and across the now grape free vineyards.  The trellises rolling along the landscape are punctuated by the white wind machines reaching high into the bright blue sky.  

Pulling onto the estate, signs direct you to the winery building located on the hilltop.  Barboursville has achieved an interesting balance in its bucolic feel, including farm buildings along with the refined charm of the tasting room facility.  

The Barboursville Estate has been making history since the 1800s when its owner James Barbour was appointed Governor of the state by the General Assembly. The mansion, designed by Thomas Jefferson, burned down on Christmas Day 1884.  The Ruins remain on the property and archeological treasures gathered from the ruins are housed in a glass case near the front of the tasting room.  

After the estate change hands several times, the Zonin family from Italy acquired the property in 1976, with intentions of founding an estate winery.  Despite being actively discouraged by the state agriculture department, who believed the future belonged to tobacco, the Zonin establishment of Barboursville Vineyards ushered in the modern era of the Virginia Wine industry.

Originally from the Piemonte region of Italy, Winemaker and General Manager Luca Paschina has provided visionary leadership since 1991.  He is quick to share the credit with all the members of the Barboursville team especially Vineyard Manager Fernando Franco who joined Barboursville in 1998.  Both Paschina and Franco are passionate about the vineyards.  It is a truism in wine that the best thing to find in the vineyard is the winemaker’s footprints.  Their partnership has resulted in Barboursville Vineyards tradition of excellence, including countless awards.

Even with their commercial and critical success, Barboursville always seems to be striving to reach the next level.  Producing approximately 35,000 cases annually, the winery has a well established and well distributed brand throughout the Commonwealth and the Eastern half of the United States.  Paschina continues to experiment with different estate grown varietals and winery methods while staying true to his northern Italian roots.

Barboursville’s tasting room is designed with guests physically moving from one tasting station to the next.  On the Sunday I visited we started with a surprise tasting of Barboursville Brut (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay).  Normally not poured in the tasting room, this sparkling dry wine exudes vanilla bean on the approach but it is pear that lingers on the finish.  A very well balanced wine, this would be a compliment to any holiday dinner or New Year’s celebration.

Pinot Grigio is Barboursville’s best selling white wine.  The 2008 vintage, made in a traditional Italian style, has apple and pear on the nose with a well structured mid-palate and undertones of honeysuckle and melon on the glowing finish.

Perhaps the most surprising white was the 2008 Riesling.  The nose was typical of a well made Riesling with its floral notes and tropical tones but at mid- palate I picked up a rich undertone of freshly cut cantaloupe that grew even more pronounced on the finish.  The touch of acid leads me to believe the complexities in this wine may benefit from another year of bottle aging.

As a big fan of Italian reds, my anticipation was peaked as I reached the red tasting station.  Many of the 2007 vintages were nice and featured solid, but lighter fruit tones.  To my palate the 2005 and 2006 vintages were head and shoulders above the 2007.

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve features only the best fruit of the 2006 vintage.  Aged in all new French oak, the nose is rich and full with hints of smoke.  The fruit is subdued on the attack but reaches a crescendo on the mid-palate with well integrated dark stone fruit undertones and a well rounded mouth feel.  The memorable finish was highlighted by the round tannins and excellent structure.  This was my first tasting of this vintage and the wine is drinking well now but may be even more interesting after another 24 months of bottle aging.

No discussion of Barboursville reds is complete without discussing their flagship red “Octagon”.  Produced only in the best vintage years, Octagon traditionally is a Merlot dominated Bordeaux style blend featuring Cabernet Franc (up to 4 clones), Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.  In a recent newsletter,  Barboursville compared the changes in a bottle of Octagon as it ages to music, “Each of these “choristers” will present its own voice extended across its own arc of time, so that whenever a collector of Octagon opens his favorite vintages, he will recognize the song immediately, but the chorus will have gained greater harmony, depth, complexity and reverberation”.

Tasting the 2005 Octagon at the tasting bar I could not help but fast forwarding the wine after a few more years of bottle aging.  The winery suggests the wine will be best after 2012; I would not be surprised to see this wine steadily becoming more harmonious through 2015 or longer.  The nice round tannins are fairly well integrated now and I anticipate they will only add layers of complexity with proper aging.

Ten years ago, when Barboursville decided to open a restaurant, it was clear there would be high expectations.  Named after Italian architect Andrea Palladio, Chef Melissa Close has exceeded expectations making Palladio Restaurant one of the most sought after reservations in the country.  As a part of her gastronomic education, Chef Melissa closes Palladio each January to allow her the opportunity to return to the Northwest portion of Italy.  After each trip, she brings home new ideas and innovative Italian cooking techniques.  While her style is steadfastly simple, it is also refined and elegant.  A glance at a recent tasting menu included Licorice-Glazed Lamb Rack with Roasted Root Vegetable Ratatouille, Michael’s Watercress & Balsamic Reduction.

Beyond the medals, the restaurant awards and the luxurious overnight accommodations, the reason to visit Barboursville Vineyards is the wine.  Without a doubt, the ancillary activities are lovely but Paschina, Franco, Close and the balance of the Barboursville team have never lost focus on their most important goals, excellent fruit and outstanding wines.  

Open everyday, check their website for details www.barboursvillewine.com

Neil Williamson is the President of The Trellis Group, a marketing consultancy focused on Virginia wineries.  He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

Vintner Profile

Luca Paschina, Winemaker and General Manager Barboursville Vineyards

Hometown: TURIN ITALY
Item that is always in your fridge: PARMIGIANIO REGGIANO CHEESE
Most challenging wine pairing: WHITE CHOCOLATE
Best thing about the Virginia Wine Industry: some of the wines
Worst thing about the Virginia Wine Industry: same
Favorite Bumper Sticker or saying: patience is a virtue
Comfort Food: fresh bread dipped in extra virgin olive oil
Most embarrassing moment: right now, since I do not remember it
Most over rated virtue: being patient
Favorite Wine (yours or anyone else's): no question……Italian Barolo’s

< Prev		Next >