It’s that month again time for those heart-shaped boxes of chocolate confections.  Paired perhaps with a dozen roses, chocolates often mean “I love you and your sweet.”  That’s not all there is to chocolate, as former White House Executive Chef, now the American Chef, Walter Scheib can tell you.

    Wally:  Most people know that chocolate comes from the beans of the cacao tree, native to Mexico, Central and South America.  For thousands of years, native people of the New World used the cacao beans for many things, but not the way we think of it.   Among other native people, the Aztecs and Mayans made a “chocolate” drink, but it was very bitter, one translation being “bitter water”.  Often chilis and other non-sweet flavorings were added.  It had ceremonial uses and was even used as currency, so many cacao beans to trade for something else.   Used in cooking, chocolate and water can also be a thickening agent.  Think of the rich moles familiar to fans of Mexican cuisine. Try the recipe with this column to enjoy an example of how chocolate can enrich a dish of braised short ribs.

    Fran:  Did you prepare Valentine meals for the First Families you served in the White House?

    Wally:  Yes indeed.  We did anything we could to help preserve the “Island of Sanity” we called the second and third floors of the White House, which are the family quarters.  

    Fran:  I know you have been a consultant to the Hershey Corporation.  What are some suggestions for learning more about chocolate?

    Wally:  For one thing, cacao beans are like grapes.  There are many varieties of beans, and there are people who delve into this, “Chocophiles”, just as there are the wine “oenophiles”.  And further, chocolate and wine can be paired beautifully.  

    Last month we recommended tasting parties and dinners, where guests and hosts compared wine, condiments and oils.  I’m suggesting people try doing the same thing with chocolate and wine.  Buy six varieties of red wine and six of good dark chocolate and see what pairings you like best. That could be a great party!

Question for the Chef

Q. Is there a place nearby where I can get herb seedlings to start some herbs indoors at this time of year? I don’t want to buy one of those kits.

Fran this time:  So many farmers markets are closed now or restricted  to root vegetables and the like, but  Endless Summer Harvest in Purcellville, Virginia, is open year round.  Combine a trip with lunch in the area for a nice outing. By mid-March, DeBaggio’s Farm and Nursery in Chantilly will be open.  I found a web site, BlossomFarm.com/FAQ.htm in Ohio which ships herb seedlings.  If readers know more, please email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it with your information.  We will pass it on next month
Check out Chef Scheib’s web site, The AmericanChef.com.  His book, “White House Chef, Eleven Years, Two Presidents, One Kitchen” is in its fourth printing.  Send Question to the Chef to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .)

Chocolate Braised Beef Short Ribs
 
Serves four

4 pounds beef short ribs, 3 inch cut
2 ½ cups onions, large dice
1 ½ cups carrots, large dice
1 ½ cups celery, large dice
4 cloves garlic, smashed
2 ounces tomato paste
2 cups red wine
1 Tbsp. Black peppercorns
1 tsp. mustard seeds
2 bay leaves
12 ounces Hershey’s Dark Coveture Chocolate
12 cups beef of veal stock
2 sprigs fresh thyme

1. Season ribs with salt and pepper and let stand for four hours, refrigerated.

2. Heat 3 Tbsp. Oil in roasting pan over medium high heat. Sear ribs evenly on all sides. 
Remove ribs from pan.

3. Add vegetables, mix well and caramelize for 15 minutes.  Add tomato paste, stir well, roast for 5 minutes. 

4.  Add wine and stir. Add peppercorns, mustard seeds and bay leaves.  Bring to boil, reduce to simmer and reduce by half.

5. Add chocolate, stock and thyme, mix well.

6. Return ribs to the pan and bring to simmer.  Cover pan with foil and place in preheated 250 degree oven for 5 hours, or until meat easily falls from the bone.

7. Remove ribs from the pan. Strain braising liquid into clean saucepan. Bring to boil, reduce to simmer and reduce by half.

8. Once ribs have cooled, pull meat from the bone and shred into small pieces or leave on the bone and serve heated with sauce over. Serve with reduced braising liquid.

This dish can be served with noodles, or risotto, with roasted vegetables on the side or just some good bread to sop up the sauce

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