What foodie has not seen “Julie and Julia,” loved it as a sweet movie and rushed home to make boeuf bourguignon? No disrespect to that paragon, Julia Child, but former White House Executive Chef Walter Scheib and I thought it would be informative to talk this month to a professional woman chef, one who has made a journey though the ranks and is now considered top-tier and respected by her peers. In this case, Tracy O’Grady, principal of the successful Willow Restaurant in Arlington.
Tracy is one of a still small percentage of female chefs, better than the days when there were none, but still tough (and, Wally and Fran agree, a whole lot tougher than attempting all the recipes in “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” Sorry, Julie). “Think of the big names,” Tracy said. “Paul Bocuse, Thomas Keller, but to name a woman, offhand I can only think of Alice Waters, but she is known best for championing the cause of quality fresh ingredients.”
Incidentally, Chef O’Grady was selected a few years ago as one of 22 chefs worldwide, the only U.S. representative to the international culinary contest, Bocuse D’Or.
Her story is part “Luck of the Irish” followed by passion, extremely hard work and a lot of talent. Here’s how it happened.
Tracy was brought up in a blue-collar Irish Catholic family, a strong support she still feels keeps her core balanced. She always wanted to be a chef, but her parents felt it wasn’t the prestige career they hoped for their kids (they’ve changed their minds) so she majored in communications at Canisius College. An advisor suggested she combine her interests by doing PR for a restaurant as a senior year externship. When she and a friend moved to D.C., Tracy checked want ads. Irish luck – “I didn’t know anything about restaurants in D.C., so how did I know when I cold-called Yannick Cam in answer to an ad for help at his restaurant, Le Pavillon, that it was the tops in D.C. Otherwise I never would have had the nerve to call.” It was right after the 1989 Presidential Inauguration – more luck – and they were in great need of help. She got the job and started at the very bottom in the kitchen. So, in chef parlance, she was classically trained rather than going to a culinary school. And another piece of the luck – she only moved to Washington because her friend wanted to be near a Naval Academy boyfriend. C’est la vie.
How about that for a foot in the door? The hard work part came next. She was the only female, but “French and Spanish were the languages spoken in the kitchen, I didn’t understand either one, so if they talked about me, I didn’t know it and just kept learning.”
And learn she did. From Le Pavillon, she went to Galileo with Roberto Donna and expanded her skills there. Next stop – Kinkead’s and helpful support from Bob Kinkead, ‘like a second father”. This doesn’t mean these men were easy to work for…life in a restaurant kitchen can be a place for strong egos, a certain amount of politics—often throwing things and yelling.
“Did you do anything differently because you are a woman?” we asked. “No, and I have to say I was always treated equally, expected to do the job. I did behave seriously and professionally at all times, no jokes. I didn’t wear makeup and I wore oversized chefs’ coats, I didn’t exaggerate my femininity. After all, I went to Catholic school and have worn uniforms all my life, except for college.”
“I also like the physical part of my job. I like to shop for supplies, go to the farmers’ markets, lift and carry. I can hold my own. My career is a mix of blue and white collar.”
Today she’s the boss, so how does that work? “I am in awe of people who are natural leaders. I had to find my way as a leader, it didn’t come naturally, but I have developed a management style. And of course I am now in a position to select a staff which is compatible with that.”
Chef and her partner husband, business manager Brian Wolken, met when Tracy was sous-chef at Galileo and Brian was a line cook. Apparently, he did have a little trouble with having a woman boss, and they parted company. However, when they met on a July 4th boat party for Kinkead staffers, one thing led to another and they were married on Sept. 2, 2005. Just your average wedding day. The wedding took place at Willow, and after the ceremony, the restaurant opened for the first time with 350 invited guests. You could say that is all that needs to be said to explain the people who love to spend their lives cooking us good food.
Question for the Chef
Wally: What is one thing home cooks could do to improve their cooking?
Tracy: I miss magazines like Gourmet, the photos - in conjunction with the recipes - could inspire every home cook. Television does some of that, and I particularly recommend “America’s Test Kitchen” on PBS and their magazine, “Cook’s Country”. Their tests of equipment and products are extremely helpful to anyone, including me.
Send Questions to the Chef to
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(Willow Restaurant, specializing in modern continental cuisine, is located at 4301 N. Fairfax Drive in Arlington. Walter Scheib, check his web site at The American Chef. Com, is the author of ‘White House Chef: Eleven Years, Two Presidents, One Kitchen”, now in its fourth printing.)
Spring Asparagus Bisque
Compliments of Willow Restaurant
Yield: 6 Servings
2 bunches Local Spring Asparagus
2 quarts Chicken Stock (Canned Low Sodium Chicken Broth may be used)
16 ounces Heavy Cream
4 ounces Crème Fraiche
4 ounces Smoked Ham, cut into large chunks
1 Leek, white part only
6 pieces Thyme Sprigs, tied in a bunch
3 bunches Fresh Chervil
1 bunch Fresh Parsley
6 ounces Shredded Smoked Salmon, Max & Me Brand (the best!)
to taste Kosher Salt
2 tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Bring 8 quarts of water and 1/4 cup salt to a rolling boil. Trim 3 inches off the top of the asparagus and reserve tips.
All the asparagus should be pre-blanched in the same manner: Add asparagus to boiling water in small batches, cooking the stems and tips separately. Once the asparagus is tender, place in a large container of ice water until cool so as to stop the cooking process. Blanch the chervil and parsley in boiling water for 30 seconds and cool in ice water. Drain asparagus tips, herbs and asparagus stems separately.
In a blender, puree the asparagus stems, chervil & parsley with just enough ice water (2 Tbsp) to ensure the items are thoroughly blended to a smooth texture. To make the base, start by heating an 8 quart stock pot over medium-high heat, add 1 ounce Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the ham & the leek. Cook over medium heat until everything is soft, trying not to add too much color. Once tender, add the chicken stock and thyme bouquet. Bring the stock to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Gently reduce the liquid by half.
Once reduced, add the heavy cream and continue simmering for an additional 10 minutes. Allow the soup to cool at room temperature for 1 hour, after which pass through a fine sieve strainer. Discard the vegetables.
Just before you plan to serve the soup, return the base to the heat and slowly bring to a simmer. First, whisk in the crème fraiche and then the asparagus puree, ensuring the soup has returned to a simmer before adding the asparagus. Taste and adjust the seasoning with Kosher salt. Serve immediately and garnish the bowls with smoked salmon, asparagus tips and chopped chives.
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