While some things have changed since we first profiled Stone Mountain Vineyards over two years ago, their commitment to high quality Virginia wine has not.  Expanding their wine portfolio to include a limited production high end Malbec and an unbelievably interesting Viognier, the focus has remained quality first.

Stone Mountain Vineyards first crush was in 1998, they opened their doors to their remarkable tasting room in 2001.  Since that time Stone Mountain Vineyards has established itself one of the premier boutique wineries within the Monticello appellation.

Walking into the enormous tasting room, with its rich heartwood pine floors and exposed beams, one might think the space was designed from inception for large events.  In reality, the size of the tasting room was dictated by the needs of the winery below.  Large windows surround the room providing a clear view of the vineyards and valley below.  

The tasting room features comfortable furniture and coffee tables beckoning the visitor to sit and enjoy the view from inside, but one would be remiss not to go out on the observation deck regardless of the weather.  From a vantage point of 1,700 feet, the deck offers views of four counties.   

The clear crisp spring mountain air greets you as you step out the door of Stone Mountain Vineyards tasting room on to their expansive observation deck.  Hawks gracefully ride the gentle geothermal waves from the valley below.  

Winemaker Chris Breiner explains the idea of a mountain winery came from his late father, Al Breiner.  “My Dad was riding on a train in Germany and saw the steep vineyards planted on either side of the Rhine River and thought if they can grow grapes on these steep slopes, I bet I can do it back on my mountain farm in Virginia.”

“That moment was the birth of the vision,” Breiner explained.  “The winery building site was selected for its unbelievable views.  Dad often said he should charge for the view and give away the wine!”  

The architecture for the building was designed to maximize gravity flow processing within the winery, and to create a low profile building as to not disturb the viewscape from below.  There were many hurdles to overcome building a large timber structure halfway up the side of a steep mountain, not the least of which was  how to get the large timbers up a twisting mountain road.

Wyatt Mountain Road has become an important part of the Stone Mountain experience.  One of the first things visitors comment on is the ride up the state maintained road.  They then see the views and taste the wines and determine the ride was well worth it. Embroidered on the back of every Stone Mountain baseball cap is the saying “How ‘bout that road”.  

From the beginning, Stone Mountain has focused on high quality, low quantity vineyard production.  Working with Gabriele Rausse, one of the fathers of the rebirth of Virginia wine, each vineyard was oriented to maximize the intensity of the fruit. In addition, the steep slope of the mountain prevented the heavy spring frost from settling in and damaging the vines.

Unlike some properties, Stone Mountain Vineyards still believes hand picking the fruit is a critical step in the winemaking process.  By select handpicking, the fruit that arrives at the winery is only the best the vineyard has to offer; less attractive clusters are left.  This results in a more powerful and fruit centered wine.

With its rich ruby color and fruit forward flavor profile, Stone Mountain Vineyards
Cabernet Franc is a great warmer weather red wine.  Much more expressive than the average California Cabernet Sauvignon, SMV Cabernet Franc Reserve features rich cedar undertones highlighted by plum and raspberry notes.  It is best enjoyed with grilled or braised beef or lamb.

The 2008 Stone Mountain Vineyards Viognier is the most interesting Viognier of this vintage.  Back during the 2008 harvest, Breiner had a higher than average yield on his Chardonnay.  With little tank space left in the winery, he allowed the Chardonnay grapes right next to the vineyard to hang longer than he ever had previously.  He did not harvest the Chardonnay until the second week of November and he brought it in at 28 Brix (the sugar level in the grape).  Rather than use this exceptional fruit in a new wine, Breiner chose to blend it into the 2008 Viognier and the not yet released 2008 Chardonnay Reserve.

The 10% overripe Chardonnay adds complexity and depth to the 2008 Viognier.  Without removing the inherent minerality of the dominant grape, the Chardonnay adds structure and length to the finish of this excellent vintage.

Stone Mountain Vineyards provides a welcome respite from the hurry of the valley below.  Leave your laptop at home – there’s no Wi-Fi here -- just glorious views and excellent wines.  What could be better?
 
Neil Williamson is a Virginia wine lover.  He highly recommends Stone Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Publishers Note: While Neil didn't talk about the Pinot Grigio, it is one of the Old Town Crier's favorite wines to sip on the patio and serve to friends.


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