Grapevine
All Virginia, All the Time – Rockbridge Vineyard
Written by Neil Williamson
If you take Exit 205 off I-81and travel just 1 mile to reach Rockbridge Vineyard, you will find your blood pressure lower before you even raise a glass. As the skinny country road twists through charming Raphine Virginia, you may find yourself waving to the older gentleman on the porch with his lemonade. Pulling into the vineyard, you are not greeted by Greek architecture or a statue of David but a gravel driveway and a covered porch attached to a rustic barn with the sign “Tasting Room” above the door.
Located near Staunton and Lexington, Rockbridge Vineyard is testament to the dedication and perseverance of Shepherd “Shep” Rouse. The term “Maverick” is generally defined as one who takes an independent stand apart from his associates. Considering the late 1980s were boom time in California wine, only a true maverick would choose not California but Virginia to establish his winemaking reputation.
Some have suggested it was Rouse’s “destiny” to be a part of the Virginia wine industry. As a boy in 1963, in his hometown of Williamsburg, Rouse found a round green glass bottle seal with the date 1718 embossed on it. Experts certified it as the second oldest wine seal ever found. In typical Rouse fashion, he donated the artifact to the Colonial Williamsburg collection.
After studying abroad and earning a Master’s degree in enology from UC Davis, Rouse was convinced of Virginia’s winegrowing potential. His work at Schramsberg, Chateau St. Jean and Carneros Creek wineries only further strengthened his resolve to make great wine in Virginia.
Rouse returned to Virginia in 1986 as the wine maker at Albemarle County’s Montdomaine Cellars. His work was quickly noticed as his 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon won the 1993 Virginia Governors’ Cup.
In 1988 Rouse discovered and purchased a farm in northern Rockbridge County, in the Shenandoah Valley at higher elevation than most Virginia vineyards and planted five acres of grapes. Rockbridge augments its own production with grapes grown by other top-quality growers at selected locations in Virginia. A variety of sources provides both an insurance policy for localized weather issues and an expansive palette of micro climates to draw on.
From this palette, Rouse is able to produce a full spectrum of wines to match a broad range of individual tastes. By processing each wine minimally and employing traditional, small batch methods, the full intensity and terrior of each wine is captured in Rouse's winemaking.
The medium size tasting room is tidy and clean with just enough wine accessories to be interesting. Winegrower Isabella was manning the tasting bar the day I visited. While I enjoy meeting and talking with tasting room staff in general, chatting up one of the people responsible for growing the grapes was a great treat. The tasting was peppered with discussions of grape cluster structure and how they fight the many diseases that challenge Virginia’s viticulture.
As Rockbridge grows a fair amount of Vidal, it is not surprising that Vidal is a major component in many of their wines. The 2006 St. Mary’s Blanc is a delightfully dry vintage with a well-structured finish that benefits from seven months in oak. The wine, a blend of 90% Vidal 10% Chardonnay is named for the St. Mary's Wilderness area located just seven miles from Rockbridge Vineyard.
No discussion of Rockbridge white wines is complete without mention of their Riesling program. The 2007 vintage is a classically styled semi-dry wine with orange blossoms and honeysuckle tones. Stainless steel fermentation leads this wine to a crisp clean finish that is perfect for summer patio parties.
The 2006 vintage of Rockbridge Vineyards DeChiel Pinot Noir garnered a silver medal in the 2007 Virginia Governors’ Cup competition. Additional bottle aging, in proper cellar conditions, has only improved this outstanding wine. A lighter Pinot Noir this fruit forward vintage features bright bing cherry on the finish. This would be an excellent red wine to pair with heartier seafood such as salmon.
Rockbridge has been producing a Tuscarora Red since 1991. This blended red wine is Chambourcin dominated with Chianti like flavor profile. This nice, dry, inky full bodied, barrel aged wine pairs exceedingly well with pasta and Mediterranean styled dishes.
Shep Rouse is one of Virginia wine’s original characters. I was in attendance when Rockbridge Vineyards won their most recent Governors’ Cup. The ceremony was held at Heritage Hunt Country Club and was a most elegant affair. After receiving the award and as the reception was winding down, Shep walked over to a piano in the corner and started to play. He brought the house down with his rendition of Jeremiah was a Bullfrog. The juxtaposition of the opulent ice sculpture in the center of the tent and of Shep standing up playing the piano with a chorus of Virginia winemakers and owners singing along was a sight, and sound, never to be forgotten.
Located near Lexington and Staunton, Rockbridge will be along the way to many vacation destinations. As you travel on I-81 this summer, plan a short diversion, just one mile off the highway, to enjoy the wines of Rockbridge Vineyards – All Virginia – All the Time.
Neil Williamson is the President of The Trellis Group, a marketing consultancy focused on Virginia wineries. He can be reached at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it