La Bergerie is a point of destination, but it’s worth the effort; that is if you desire French cuisine done at a very high level. La Bergerie has graced the quiet confines of Old Town, Alexandria for more than a generation, but make no mistake; this is no longer your father’s La Bergerie. Owner Laurent Janowsky and executive chef Sylvain Tonello have succeeded at incorporating modern interpretations of traditional French fare.

As we entered, the first thing that got my attention was the subdued elegance of the dining room. It was church quiet; servers spoke in hushed tones. As I scanned the room I begin to notice things ― fresh-cut flowers, candle-lit tables, desserts flambéed table-side... Immediately, I realized that I was in a first-class restaurant and the posh surroundings were a favorable harbinger of the meal ahead. However, this being my first visit to La Bergerie, I was skeptical; to often I’ve been beguiled by a restaurant’s charming ambiance only to be served abysmal food. I wouldn’t be duped this night. I vowed to reserve final judgment until after dinner. After all, “The proof of the pudding is in the eating,” is it not?

I have to be honest here. I was quite prepared to be received by a haughty Frenchman upon our arrival, but the exact opposite occurred. Mr. Janowsky, the owner since 2000, could not have been more genial. He welcomed me as if we were close acquaintances.

La Bergerie is really a tale of two restaurants; the cuisine, of course, and the service. Our food was nearly flawless while the service was impeccable! I might sound as if I’m a culinary Francophile. Au contraire, actually I’ve worked with enough French chefs over the course of my culinary career to know that being French and a good cook are not necessarily mutually inclusive.

We began our meal with escargots, which were a tad bland because the kitchen neglected to add the garlic, parsley, tomatoes and hazelnuts as stated on the menu. My Caesar salad was perfectly prepared at our table, complete with anchovy strips and house-made croutons. We also shared Coquilles St Jacques. The traditional preparation is a gratin of scallops, mushrooms and béchamel sauce topped with breadcrumbs assembled in a scallop shell. Chef Tonello’s version is pan-seared scallops topped with a delightful mango and saffron sauce. But I’m unsure why La Bergerie insists upon employing the classic name for this menu item when its version is so vastly different from the original. A classic dish is a classic and when it’s modified it becomes an entirely new dish. Many restaurants are guilty of this culinary faux pas.

I couldn’t resist the soft shells entrée, which consisted of two large crabs that were bisected and deep-fried tempura-style. I was impressed that a modern French restaurant employed a venerable Portuguese cooking technique ― the Japanese popularized tempura, but Portuguese traders introduced it to Japan in the mid-16th century ― which was a welcome departure from the commonplace seasoned flour coating that every restaurant in North America can’t seem to get beyond.

My dinner companion savored every tender strand of the house-made Taglianni pasta with shaved black truffles. (I’m sure this is culinary heresy, but I believe the flavor benefit from truffles is wildly exaggerated. Too little bang for the buck.) However, the paper thin slices of the dear, little fungus did contribute a subtle, earthy nuance to the dish.

Then it was time for dessert. I’m a pastry chef so I’m pretty picky. We ordered the hazelnut soufflé and crêpes Suzette. The soufflé itself was perfect -- airy with a crusty dome and a slightly mushy center. There was only one problem; our server doused it with a cold hazelnut sabayon ― a dessert sauce of whipped yolks and white sugar with whipped cream folded in. As a rule, cold sauces should not be served with warm desserts. This venial sin was more than offset by the lusciousness of the soufflé.

The crêpes Suzette were masterfully prepared at our table. The tender, house-made crêpes served with an intense buttery, orange and Grand Marnier sauce were so scrumptious I felt duty-bound to clean my plate ― and I did.

The service staff acquitted itself well, operating with the silent efficiency of a fine Swiss watch. Their adroit table-side preparations indicated a high level of skill. They were unobtrusive and, uncannily, materialized precisely when needed. I got the impression that service is their calling as they appeared to take their work as seriously as I’ve seen their European counterparts do. To his credit, our waiter didn’t feel compelled to introduce himself. I don’t know about you, but I don’t eat out to strike up a relationship with my server and I have no doubt he’d rather not make my acquaintance.

We wisely requested that Mr. Janowsky select our wine. He suggested a white French Burgundy that was crisp, dry and soft; it paired nicely with our entrées. La Bergerie’s wine list is a formidable one, winning Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence every year since 2000. Few restaurants in the Metro area can make this claim.

La Bergerie isn’t just a destination for that special occasion dinner. It’s also a great place to enjoy a reasonably priced lunch. It offers two and three course prix fixe lunches at $22 and $26, respectively. The next time you are in the mood for exceptional French food and smart service I would encourage you to consider this hidden Old Town jewel.

In an ever-changing food world it is comforting to know that there are still restaurant owners who eschew popular trends and maintain a healthy respect for traditional cuisine, yet have the curiosity to cook beyond conventional gastronomic dictums. La Bergerie is one such restaurant. If my praise seems overly effusive that’s because it’s well deserved. After 34 years, this extraordinary establishment continues to produce some of the best French fare in the Metropolitan Washington market.

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