Not having been to Chart House restaurant―opened at Old Town’s waterfront in 1990―for a few years I was curious to see what had changed. We decided to do a quiet lunch and avoid the dinner rush. The first thing we noticed was the restaurant’s facelift. The interior has had a serious makeover―new carpet, lighting, chairs, bar... I’d forgotten just how cavernous this place is; it definitely isn’t set up for that cozy and warm dining experience. Chart House’s dining room is first and foremost a “room with a view!” As we were guided to our table, we were awestruck by the spectacular view of the Potomac and the Cherry Blossom―a re-creation of a 19th century Victorian riverboat.
Our waiter―who was nattily attired, polite and efficient throughout―presented us with the regular lunch menu and a list of that day’s specials. The first thing I noticed was that the New England clam chowder was listed on both the special and regular menus. How can it be a special offering if it’s also on the regular menu? Nevertheless, the chowder was fabulous―made with heavy cream and chock full of chopped clams, potatoes and celery. It also had a hint of thyme; most chefs ignore this distinctive and classic herb, but not Executive Chef Jeffrey Lewis.
Tempura Shrimp Kushi ($11.99) Rather than batter and fry whole shrimp, Chart House opts to impale thin strips of shrimp flesh with wood skewers. This caused the shrimp to become a tad rubbery from overcooking, but the flavor was superb. The shrimp was served with avocado tempura. I might have selected another food item because tempura batter cannot adhere to the oily, super slick surface of this particular fruit―much of it washed off.
Calamari and Friends ($12.99) This was delicious and the quantity was ample. The ringlets were seasoned, coated and fried to perfection. This was served with assorted mild peppers prepared in the same manner.
Stuffed Flounder ($27.99) The stuffed flounder itself was perfect. Chart House offers an ample portion of this flat fish. The mouth-watering filet was tender and delicate. It was crammed with succulent, buttery lump crab. The mashed Yukon Gold potatoes were fine. I would have liked to have seen a veggie on the plate to make it more of a complete meal. For this price I don’t think it’s too much to ask.
Miso Glazed Salmon ($26.99) This consisted of two smallish, prosciutto-wrapped filets that were slightly wizened from overcooking. The coating of miso (a soy-based flavoring paste from Japan) and maple glaze lent an interesting sweet-salty, or yin yang, element to this tasty dish. This entrée was accompanied by a scant serving of green beans. It was accompanied by a light and delicate buerre blanc―white wine butter sauce.
Beef Short Ribs ($18.99) The Chart House menu promises short ribs―as in more than one. We received just one rib. I wouldn’t have minded if the portion had been more generous. The cut we were served was uncharacteristically stringy unlike a cut of meat from the intercostal section of an animal. It was fork tender. The red wine, demi glace sauce was rich with hearty beef flavor that one expects with a laborious reduction sauce.
Crème Brûlée ($6.99) This was superb. I doubt if one could find any better in France. It was custardy and creamy with a thin veneer of crusty sugar. Too many restaurants try to pass off crème caramel as crème brûlée either because the chef doesn’t know the difference or he does, but hopes you don’t.
The Wines We sampled a Bollini pinot grigio ($9), an Italian import, Franciscan Oakville Estate ($12) and Sonoma-Cutrer chardonnays ($15) per glass. These are respectable California chards that are commonly served in local restaurants. They were crisp, buttery and oaky. Although a tad pricey, we loved these wines!
Salad Bar Chart House has always offered an exceptional salad bar. With approximately 50 selections to choose from, there is something to suit any and every palate on this salad bar. Salad bars at most chains are typically insipid smorgasbords of wilted greens and flavorless pasta salads. There is a Caesar salad section, as well as meats, cheeses, assorted fruits and even caviar. Customers can select the salad bar only for $16.50 or opt to have with an entrée for $8.25. Either way it’s an all-you-can-eat affair.
While the Chart House is one of the links in a successful national restaurant chain (There are 26 Chart Houses nationwide and one of numerous brands owned by Landry’s Restaurants Inc.), it is offering some interesting dishes that hint at culinary inspiration. Being a corporate chef is a balancing act, which Chef Lewis has managed to negotiate. He is producing respectable fare despite the corporate framework within which corporate chefs have to work―a prescribed menu, portion control and cost constraints. While I would have preferred larger portions (Never trust a skinny chef, I say.), Chef Lewis’ food is tasty and attractive. He deserves kudos for his efforts.
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