
We stopped at Indigo Landing the other night for dinner. Having not been there for a while I thought it was time to get reacquainted. Indigo is located at the Washington Sailing Marina, just south of Reagan National. If there’s a more pacific setting for a restaurant in Northern Virginia I’d like to know about it. Overlooking the Potomac River, Indigo offers sweeping water views from one aspect and on the GW Parkway side there is a picturesque marina. A feeling of tranquility washes over you. Glance beyond Reagan National and you’ll see the dome of our Nation’s Capitol and the Washington Monument. The landing jets offer a peculiar form of entertainment. I find it astonishing how these airborne behemoths appear to dangle from some invisible thread as they descend to terra firma. We’ve all driven by this venue a thousand times, but how often do we take the time to stop to escape the madding hustle of urban life?
Before I began writing this article I did a bit of on-line research about Indigo. I like to know the opinions of others so I consulted Yelp to discover the comments of other diners. After all, aren’t we all restaurant reviewers in one fashion or anther? Just because my opinions about a restaurant are reduced to print it doesn’t make them anymore valid than yours. Not surprisingly, everyone raved about the view. However, the reviews about the food and service were mixed. While I value the opinions of others, I don’t allow them to cloud my judgment. I approached my Indigo experience with an “empty plate” if you will. Fairness demands that we must be cognizant of the fact that when a food-service prepares and serves thousands of meals annually mistakes are inevitable. Every restaurant has bad days. When I owned Café Marianna I had more than my share. Restaurants are operated by humans.

We began with lump crab and artichoke dip ($10.99) with grilled flat bread. This was an auspicious beginning to our meal. It was creamy, full of crab meat and the warm bread was the tool for sopping. We shared appetizers of fried calamari ($8.99) and oysters ($11.49). The latter is served with a fiery salsa and both are served with a creamy dipping sauce. Both were encrusted with a tasty corn meal coating. Sadly, in both instances they were over-fried, rendering the exterior too dark and a tad crunchy. Prolonged heating drives the flavorful liquor from oysters. Flash-frying is the key.
I’m hesitant about ordering Caesar salad ($7.99) when I eat out because few restaurants get it right. Most don’t even bother to make the dressing to order as it’s supposed to be done. Nevertheless, feeling adventuresome I risked it. Indigo’s Caesar would have been fine except a key ingredient was missing. There wasn’t a hint of anchovy flavor, not filets, not even paste. This is the pronounced and distinctive flavor that makes a Caesar, well a Caesar. We also munched on the iceberg lettuce wedge ($6.99) with Maytag blue cheese dressing that was surrounded by cherry tomatoes. (Ever wonder why it’s called “Maytag” blue cheese? In 1941 the Maytag family, of appliance fame, was the first to patent and manufacture a veined cheese in America.) This salad was simple yet perfect; the crispy lettuce was slathered with creamy dressing and topped with shaved onions.
For the entrées we ordered risotto with grilled chicken ($23.00), filet of sole with risotto ($20.99) and crab cakes ($29.99). The risotto was creamy and cheesy, but the grilled chicken was a bit leathery from over-grilling. The sole was perfectly coated with seasoned bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese. The tender crust made this flat fish delicacy all the better. The crab cakes were two generous scoops of that lump crab for which we all have a passion. There was a scant amount of filler and the seasoning was spot on. They were as good as I’ve ever had. The cakes came with succotash, one of my favorites sides. While the entrées themselves were fine, none were hot. Mine flirted with room temperature. I was befuddled. The kitchen took the time to prepare perfectly nice dishes, but ignored a cardinal culinary precept―food temperature. Hot food should be hot.

We finished with crème brûlée, apple en croute and strawberry shortcake. Each was $7. The crème brûlée was better than most; it was creamy and not overly sweet. I felt the coating of burnt sugar was a bit thin, though. The apple tartlet was excellent. As it should be, it was served warm. The savory short dough was tender and buttery. The apple filling was seasoned with just the right amounts of cinnamon and sugar. This gem of a dessert sat in a generous pool of luscious caramel sauce. This a perfect sauce for this particular dessert. The strawberry shortcake was the runt of this dessert litter. The pound cake, “whipped cream” and strawberry sauce were all store-bought. I know this kitchen can do better.
A few of the Yelp comments criticized the floor service at Indigo. Those disgruntled patrons must not have been served by our waitress. She was charming and breath of fresh air compared to the automatons who inhabit many restaurants. She was unobtrusive yet seemed to materialize precisely when needed. Good servers have this ability. She was delightful.
It’s been a while since I’ve been to Indigo Landing, mainly because there was nothing exceptional about the cuisine or the service. That’s all changed. Both have been improved. With a little tweaking the food can be taken elevated to even greater heights. Combined with the stunning views and peaceful ambiance Indigo can become one of the great dining destinations in the Metro area.
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