Usually in the summer I long for crabs, beer and sitting by the water. I’ve written about some great crab houses in previous Old Town Crier issues, such as Harris Crab House at Kent Island, Tim’s River Shore on the Potomac, and Cantler’s Riverside Inn outside of Annapolis. All of these are fun and informal sitting outside on a sun-drenched deck under an umbrella with a mound of steamed Blue Crabs, a pitcher of Bud Light on the table, and frequently a raucous band playing great old rock n roll. What a way to spend a summer day.
However, I recently rediscovered a waterfront dining location that is comfortable and inviting rather than hot, steamy and raucous. Having an uncle who lived in Cambridge, Maryland who was a member of the country club, I had been there previously but remembered it as a small building with passable food and adequate service – more as a convenience for members than a good dining experience. So it was with some hesitation that I agreed to meet my father there several weeks ago for lunch. First of all the name has changed to Clearview at Horns Point, the building has been renovated and expanded. There is a new swimming pool next door and a brand new dock built out into the Choptank River. I enjoyed lunch so much, especially the crab cakes, that I returned for a Sunday brunch recently with my mother and sister.
Clearview is easy to find, just a few miles out of Cambridge. So if you’re on your way to the Maryland beaches, this is a convenient stop over. The entrance drive borders the golf course and ends at a small parking area in front of the building. Steps leading up to the porch entry welcome you to the dining room, which is divided into two eating areas separated by a small bar with a huge window behind it showing the view to the river. For our visit we chose to sit on the patio overlooking the lawn and the river. Although it was a warm afternoon, there was a cool pleasant breeze. 
Our server immediately welcomed us and described the brunch - which is buffet style and includes unlimited champagne, mimosas or bellinis. (Bellini is a cocktail made with white peaches and proseco and was invented at Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy). We ordered mimosas and wasted no time finding the buffet tables inside. The offerings are not as extensive as some brunch buffets I’ve had but there are no fillers at Clearview. The breakfast station included eggs benedict, apple wood smoked bacon, sausage, home fries, waffles, muffins, and shrimp and grits. Omelets and all egg dishes are cooked as ordered. The carving station featured prime rib with offerings of caesar salad and fresh cooked vegetables. The midway station included smoked salmon, bagels, fresh fruit, pastries and steamed shrimp. For a buffet, the service was attentive with offers of drink refills and used plates taken quickly.
The atmosphere is welcoming. There was a diverse mixture of customers; some folks obviously just coming from church, several groups in shorts and tee shirts on their way to Ocean City, and even a young father with his two children who docked his boat and ate on the patio before gathering up the kids and heading downriver.
Cost for brunch was $25 per person. Considering the mimosas we drank it was a bargain price.
Although I have not met him, Chef Paul Shiley sounds like a man I would enjoy. 
He is an expert in the art of preparing Maryland Crab Cakes, his favorite food is Italian and he is a graduate of the Baltimore Culinary School. I can attest to the quality of his crab cakes from having lunch there earlier this summer. He uses only lump crab with a minimum of other ingredients. Also during that lunch, I tried the shrimp cocktail and Ahi tuna appetizers. Both were outstanding and I’m looking forward to trying Cioppino on my next visit.
Happy Hour is every Friday between 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. All appetizers are half price, all draft beers are $2, domestic bottled beers are $2.50 and bottles of wine are 30% off.
Clearview is a standout restaurant in its location in Dorchester County where most restaurants are of the fast food variety. It could easily hold its own in the DC area. Maybe it is my upcoming fatherhood that is drawing me to Clearview, which is comforting and inviting, away from the crowded, raucous crab houses. I am regretting that Clearview is two hours away.
Clearview at Horns Point
5650 Clearview Key
Cambridge, Maryland
410-221-0521
www.clearviewathornspoint.com
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