Have you experienced this year’s perfect fall day? A day that starts with a slight chill in the air followed by a warm sun that makes the turning trees reds and golds glisten. A day that encourages you outside and rewards you with crisp air and breath-taking scenery. A day that demands a search for the countryside filled with farm fields, grazing horses, geese flying overhead and roadside stands selling pumpkins, Indian corn and apple cider. Recently my family and I enjoyed the perfect day visiting and dining in Middleburg.
In past years, fall was a favorite time for me to put the top down on my convertible and seek quiet country roads, however since becoming a Dad my mode of transportation is an SUV filled with baby paraphernalia. We chose to live vicariously the convertible sporty life by attending the Hunt Country Classic, which is a British car show featuring MG’s, Austin Healey’s, Aston Martin’s, Triumph’s, and Rolls Royce’s. This is an annual event held at Willoughby Farm outside Middleburg.
The trip to the car show motivated me to plan a visit to The French Hound, a relatively new restaurant in the heart of Middleburg. I contacted John-Gustin Birkitt, the owner and chef, to make a reservation and perhaps meet him during my visit. Although he said he tried to adhere to a schedule of having off on Sundays he graciously agreed to meet us. The restaurant is easy to find just a block off Main Street in a white brick building with the words “French Hound” on the chimney. There is ample parking in an adjoining lot.
Walking to the entrance we passed a patio filled with guests enjoying late lunches under umbrellas. Upon entering we were greeted by the hostess and seated in one of the several small dining rooms. The atmosphere is one of a country inn with hardwood floors and brightly painted walls decorated with antiques and paintings of country scenes. There is a small bar in the middle where I can envision the local residents lounging during the cold winter months. 
Our server welcomed us, described the specials of the day, asked about drinks and gave us a couple of entrée suggestions to consider. In addition to the regular lunch menu on Sundays, there are brunch specials of traditional Eggs Benedict and the smoked salmon version, waffles and omlettes with asparagus and goat’s cheese. During our menu deliberations I enjoyed a glass of River Road Cabernet Sauvignon, my sister ordered Gala Rouge Pinot Noir and my wife and mother shared a bottle of Veritas Viogner. For appetizers we ordered Cacahouetes Piquantes (spicy peanuts), Pretzels et Moutarde, Merquez et Rouille(bites of Ayrshire Farm Lamb sausage with a spicy aioli), and Prince Edward Island steamed mussels.
We finally selected our entrees with my sister ordering the Mixte sandwich, which is ham, comte-cheese and butter lettuce on a baguette and served with frites. My mother also choose a sandwich, the Pate, which is country pate on a baguette with Dijon mustard and bibb lettuce, with asparagus rather than the frites. My wife selected the brunch special omlette accompanied by a mix of fresh fruit. I ordered a marinated skirt steak served with frites and herbed chive compound butter. We continued our previous wine choices with the entrees.
Just as I was beginning to think John-Gustin wasn’t there he came from the kitchen delivering dishes to a neighboring table. I realized that business that day demanded he work rather than socialize-one of the joys of owning your own restaurant. We managed to talk a little after the lunch hour died down and he explained that he and his wife, Marny, had decided to settle in Virginia after living in France for several years to be close to family. He was born in Leesburg, studied at the New England Culinary Institute and worked for several years at locations in Napa Valley. They also own The Wine Cellar, a wine and gourmet shop, a couple doors from the restaurant offering Virginia wines and wines from around the world. Certainly their years in Napa and France provide them the experience and education necessary for this enterprise.
Ending our meal we all chose desert. Our selections were; Gateau au Citron(lemon pound cake with Moorenko’s honey lavender ice cream), Crème Caramel, and Crepes aux Chocolat et Framboises (warm chocolate and raspberry flavored crepes filled with Chantilly cream). Our tab before tip for four appetizers, wine, four entrees and three deserts was $197.
The menu offers traditional French fare to include frog’s legs, escargots, foie gras and liver pate, beef bourguignon and roasted leg of lamb with lentils. However, since the menu changes frequently I would suggest being flexible in your expectations.
The wine menu is concise and includes wines from Virginia, France, Spain, California, Italy and Argentina. White wines run from $30 a bottle for Valminor Albarino from Spain to $80 for Jacques Bavard Meursault . Reds range from Glory Days Merlot for $22 a bottle to Chateau Deymen Valentin Margaux for $83. Only a few are offered by the glass, but they made an exception for the Pinot Noir we ordered. For celebrations there are several sparkling wines including one of my favorites, Veuve Cliquot at $85.
Having spent the day viewing beautiful vintage cars displayed on a lovely farm and dining in quaint historic Middleburg, we ended our perfect fall day driving back to Alexandria with the setting sun behind us.
The French Hound
101 South Madison Street
Middleburg, Virginia 540-687-3018
www.thefrenchhound.com
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