Few venues east of the Mississippi can hold a candle to the enclave of swank hotels and restaurants, charming sidewalk cafés and boutiques that historic Old Town, Alexandria offers. However, there’s been a new kid in town for some time and I thought it was high time I made the trek to Maryland to visit National Harbor and try one of its twenty-three restaurants. I know I’m late to the party, but I’m an Old Town devotee and have felt that I’d be deserting the home team by fraternizing with the cross-town rival.

Public House is the most recent addition to a chain of four — the others located in N.Y. City, Philly and Wilmington. Not expecting much in the way of decent food―simply because Public House is part of a chain―I was prepared for the worst, but was pleasantly surprised and impressed by the level of cuisine Chef Ron Amend’s kitchen produces.

The appetizers were exceptional for the most part. Fortunately, I ordered the Filet Mignon Flatbread. Large enough to be an entrée, the unctuous medallions of filet, demi-glace reduction, wild mushrooms and just the right amount of Gorgonzola combined to this make this dish sublime. If my description seems effusive that’s because it’s warranted. Reluctantly, I shared this with my delightful dinner companions, but I gave them tiny portions.

The Philly Cheesesteak Spring Roll was also a hit. Nearly the size of a hotdog bun, it’s filled with shaved rib eye, caramelized onions & peppers and American cheese. It’s complemented by tangy, house-made tomato ketchup. The crunchy, flakey wrapper was golden brown just as it ought to be. The Mussels Chorizo was disappointing, however. The broth was far too spicy, overpowering the tender, plump ovals of the New Zealand green-lipped mussels. We also tried the crab soup. The tasty yet delicate tomato broth carried the hand-cut vegetables and only a few flecks of crab. For $9 it might have had a bit more crab. We also shared the Maryland Crab cake. The cakes were ample and chock full of sweet Eastern shore, lump meat with no filler and only the necessary binders.

The entrées also received mixed reviews. My pan-seared salmon filet was done to a perfect medium rare, just as I requested. The tartness of the crème fraiche with which it was served was a soft and complementary balance. We shared the grilled Southwest Pork Loin. While the portion was generous, we all agreed the meat was overcooked and too dry. In my opinion, grilling is the wrong cooking method for this particular cut of meat due the inherent absence of interior marbling. Plus, it tends to lose what little moisture it has when heated too long. My friend had a grilled NY Strip. It was thick-cut and succulent

Being a pastry chef myself, I was adamant that we sample a range of desserts. The “half-done” Cookie Dough Smash is baked and served in a mini cast iron skillet, topped with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with chocolate sauce. It was deliciously warm and gooey with the texture of a just-out-of-the-oven brownie. The Grilled Pound Cake was served warm with house-made lemon curd. It is substantial and enough for two. We couldn’t resist ordering the Mango Cheesecake with mango coulis. While the flavor was subtle and not sickly sweet—like so many American desserts tend to be―the texture lacked the creaminess I look for in this dessert.

To be fair, Public House has only been open a bit more than a year and the current chef, Ron Amend, has only been at his post for two months. A short time indeed to get the food right, especially with the volume of food this kitchen produces. The dining room was completely full on a Tuesday night in a sluggish economy. People are eating here for a reason.

Chef Amend does not cook beyond himself. I object to overly zealous “Indie-chefs” who over-reach to make some ludicrous “culinary statement.” Hey, it’s my dinner they’re experimenting with. Having said that, Chef Amend is willing to go out on a sensible limb, the Cheesesteak Spring Roll being a good example. It’s quirky, but it works. The few minor flaws with our food were more than offset by the overall positive attributes of the menu. A few items just need a little tweaking. A revised menu is scheduled to come out at the end of May, after our visit.

Public House is one part restaurant and one part nightclub. The interior is a black, cavernous room, which doesn’t seem to have been designed acoustically for loud music. This creates an annoying cacophony that interferes with normal dinner conversation. Suggestion: arrive well before the karaoke begins at 9:00 PM. Public House is not for the faint of heart. It’s a bustling beehive of activity and can be slightly raucous at times, but still it’s fun and it’s lively.

Now that I’ve conquered my separation anxiety of venturing beyond the limits of Old Town, I’m looking forward to my next visit to Public House and wandering around National Harbor to discover other delicious culinary experiences. Now I’m convinced that National Harbor is not a cross-town rival. Actually the reverse is true, the restaurant diversity and level of competition enhance Old Town. There is also ample parking in several garages. While metered parking is also available, it is expensive – paying for the garage is the way to go whether you will be an hour or four. Your car will be warm in the winter and cool in the summer!!

Public House
99 Fleet St.
National Harbor, MD
240-493-6120
publickhousenationalharbor.com

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