Just outside of Charlottesville a dramatic winery metamorphosis has occurred.  Afton Mountain Vineyards, one of the pioneer Virginia wineries and always a high quality producer, is now a luxurious tasting destination winery on the Monticello Wine Trail.

Set roughly halfway up Afton Mountain, the vineyards have always had a great backdrop of the Southwest Mountains in the distance but these vistas could only be appreciated from afar as the tasting room was located in a smallish room located above the winery building.  

Today, as you drive in the long driveway, you pass right by the old tasting room, to the repurposed “Tasting House”.  Owners Elizabeth and Tony Smith, who acquired the winery in 2009, remodeled an existing house on the property and added such glorious touches as a veranda overlooking the farm pond with Italian marble rail.  The terrace is just steps away from the vineyard separated by a custom designed wedding pagoda.  Between the vineyards is a glorious tiled courtyard that provides respite for weary travelers and perhaps a dance floor for other winery events.

The Tasting House has a restful, unpretentious feel to it.  While the tasting bar is in the center of the house and several tables are available on the veranda, a comfortable sitting room provides climate-controlled relaxation for those not wanting to venture out of doors.  In addition, the house features a “Board Room” for small group wine tasting.

One benefit of the rich heritage of Afton Mountain is the age of the vineyards.  As a vine ages the yields tend to drop but the character and personality of the fruit increase.  Twelve acres were planted in the late 1970s by David Mefford.  While some of these vineyards have been replaced, today many of the vines in the red block are 32 years old.  This spring, vineyard manager Robbie Corpora and his crew planted almost 1,000 new vines of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.
 
Located in the “rain shadow” of Afton Mountain, many of the localized thunderstorms that have been prevalent in recent weeks never reach the vineyard.  As regular Grapevine readers know this is good for the grapes as it makes the roots work harder to draw water from deeper in the soils and it reduces the water volume of the fruit.

Twenty-five percent of Afton Mountain’s 13½  acre vineyard is planted to Gewürztraminer with another twenty five percent dedicated to Chardonnay.  While the vast majority of the fruit used in Afton Mountain’s wines is estate grown, they augment certain varietals from other local vineyards within the Monticello American Viticultural Area (AVA).  

Harvest had already started the week of my most recent trip to Afton Mountain.  The first week of August, they brought in the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that will be the components of the 2010 Tête de Cuvée.  This fruit is generally picked when the sugar levels (Brix) reach 18 – 20.  This is a slightly lower brix than would generally be used for table wine but the lower sugar content helps to sustain the fruit’s flavor profile throughout the fermentation and build the semi-dry taste of the sparkling.

The tasting experience at Afton is complimented by the staff.  I tasted with Sales Manager Nick Crutchfield who was very knowledgeable about the wines and relaxed on this August Saturday.  The entire staff was gregarious, friendly and unpretentious.  

Tasting the 2006 Tête de Cuvée, I found this Methode Champenoise wine to have benefited from spending two years “on the lees” (the yeast remnants).  This process yielded a yeast filled nose and a bubble filled attack that is doughy with a nice balance and full mouthfeel.  The finish featured lingering citrus undertones.

With so much vineyard dedicated to Gewürztraminer, it was with great expectations I sipped the 2008 vintage.  Fermented in the Alsatian style, this wine never touched any oak, the resultant wine is crisp, dry and clean.  The slightly tight nose only hinted at the undercurrents of honeysuckle and orange peel found in the mid palate and finish.  The 2008 Gewürztraminer is an excellent dry wine to pair with spicy seafood dishes.

Petit Verdot, one of the five Bordeaux blending grapes, is growing in popularity in Virginia as a separate varietal.  Afton Mountain’s 2008 Petit Verdot is among the best I’ve tasted in the state.  The color of the wine fills the glass from rim to rim.  The plum filled attack leads to an expanding midpalate cascading with dark stone fruits.  The well structured finish features rich round tannins and hints of black pepper.

Afton Mountain’s 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, unlike the 2007 vintage which featured 16% Merlot.  Being varietally accurate this wine has a slightly subdued attack that opens up at the midpalate with plum and black cherry leading to a memorable finish with just a hint of smoke.

Festa Di Bacco is named in honor of the first winery operation on the property, Bacchanal Vineyards.  This “Super Tuscan” is a well-integrated blend of 40% Sangiovese, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot.  The deep dark ruby color is both enticing and mysterious.  The round tannins on the attack expand on the midpalate with undertones of red cherry.  The long lingering finish features black cherry, licorice and a hint of tobacco.  This wine is drinking exceedingly well now but will continue to improve with 3 to 5 years of proper cellaring.

A great deal has changed at Afton Mountain Vineyards, Elizabeth and Tony Smith have put their personal stamp on the historic property and created a more consumer friendly tasting experience in one of the most beautiful vineyard sites in Virginia.  An easy day trip from Alexandria, it’s worth your time to see why they say “Grapes Don’t Grow in Ugly Places”™.

Neil Williamson is the Chairman of the Virginia Wine Club and the Editor of The Virginia Wine Journal. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

 

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