It is often the surprises that make any journey memorable. A trip to the Three Fox Vineyards estate in Delaplane is filled with such unexpected delights.
As you pull off the main drag on to the driveway, you are greeted by a large hill, not sure what to expect over the rise you take in the meadow bordered by a stream to the right and the hammock swinging empty in the light breeze. Cresting the hill, you spot the well-kept vineyards but your eye seeks a wine production facility but sees only a small shed shaped building with a patio surrounding it.
Walking into the tasting room, you feel magically transported to a family wine tasting canteen in Tuscany. You are struck how cozy but still roomy this relatively small space feels. Surrounded by subtle Italian tile and gentle instrumental music, you can feel your concerns fade to the back of your mind as you prepare to taste Tuscany in Virginia.
Three Fox Vineyards turns five this year and my how they have grown. Since 2002, Holli and John Todhunter have watched their dream to make “La Dolce Vita a part of your life!” grow into one of the more successful boutique wineries in the state. With a 50 acre estate (10 ½ under vine) the vineyard is designed to be interactive for visitors. With tented al fresco terrazzo, vineyard side bocce ball courts, hiking trails, hammocks and creek side picnic areas this property is much more than just open space it is a place to relax and enjoy.
Winemaking comes naturally to John Todhunter. With a degree in biochemistry, he started making his own wine while he was in graduate school at University of California Santa Barbara. As he applied his biochemistry to agricultural enterprises, he was drawn to the permanence of farming and specifically wine growing.
Over the last fifteen years, John and Holli have traveled to Italy over eighty times (though significantly less since opening Three Fox). Each and every visit, they spent time with their many winemaking friends learning their craft by working along side in their family wineries.
Holli’s background as a retail buyer is evident in the high quality of wine related merchandise available in the tasting room. Her infectious exuberance for the Three Fox winery experience is evident as she tells of the many marriage proposals that have been made (and accepted) at the “Table in the Sky” located on the property.
The property also has a “Winemobile” golf cart for folks who wish to hike down the hill and perhaps call for a ride back up. The Winemobile also assists picnickers who find they did not purchase enough wine for their group. A simple cell phone call to the tasting room and a staffer will deliver wine directly to your hammock if so desired.
The wines of Three Fox Vineyards tend to be more elegant and less oaky. In a traditional Italian style, these wines are built for food. The Todhunters vast experience with the culinary community obviously influenced many of the more subtle winemaking decisions. By selecting to use Hungarian and American oak in their barrel program, the resulting wines have well structured but not overly tannic palate profile.
The Three Fox Appassionata Vidal 2008 is an unusual Virginia Vidal crafted in an “off-dry” style this wine features 3.0% sugar even though your taste buds will say much it is much lower (I guessed 1.5%). The natural acidity of the Vidal cuts the sweetness of the sugar and highlights the more traditional tones of honey and citrus. Stainless steel fermentation provides a fruit forward attack and crisp clean finish.
One of the challenges to a Virginia Cabernet Franc harvest is determining when your best opportunity to pick is. With hurricane season usually underway, and a killing frost a very real possibility, winegrowers across the state ask “Do I let it Hang?” The answer was a resounding yes for Three Fox Vineyards 2007 Alouette Cabernet Franc.
Not harvested until the second week of November, the ’07 Alouette benefited greatly from the extra hang time resulting in a much heartier wine than many Cab Francs in this vintage. Aged 10 months in a blend of Hungarian and American Oak barrels, this wine expresses chocolate undertones leading to black cherry and mild spice on the midpalate. The finish is well structured and memorable. This wine cries to be enjoyed with a steak or big fat cigar!
The 2007 Il Volpe (the “Fox”) is a “super Tuscan” style blend of 75% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Chambourcin. The resulting blend builds on the fruit forward strength of the Sangiovese, the Chambourcin adds richness to the mid-palate as the Cabernet Sauvignon adds chocolate tones and tannins for a strong lingering finish. Rather than a jolting rollercoaster the different varietals are well integrated with lots of cherry and light spice notes throughout. The ’07 Il Volpe recently won a Gold medal in the Fourth Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition and a Silver medal in the Hilton Head International Wine Competition.
Located near a number of wineries (including last month’s feature Barrel Oak Winery), Three Fox Vineyards is an excellent day trip. Holli and John Todhunter encourage you to pack a picnic, bring the dog and make “La Dolce Vita a part of your life!”
Neil Williamson is the President of The Trellis Group, LLC, a wine marketing consultancy focused on East Coast wineries. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
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