Monday May 21, 2012 | May 2012 Issue

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My Favorite Places
From the Archives

This month, let’s take a stroll down memory lane with my July, 1998 article on the Greenbrier. You will note everything new ten years ago. Hopefully, the resort can conclude their long running labor dispute and get back to full steam ahead at this magnificent Favorite Place!

THE GREENBRIER
White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

In my many travels over the years, it is ironic I was fortunate to grow up but 19 miles from one of the grandest of resorts in the world, THE GREENBRIER. Located just across the border in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia you will find the stately elegance of this Five Star / Five Diamond resort to be truly one of the finest in the world.

Long owned by CSX corporation, The Greenbrier is still very much representative of what were once known as the grand "railroad resorts"...magnificent resort estates either built or purchased by railroad magnates and turned into top class facilities which would attract the wealthy of the world. These properties were of the best construction, furnished in lavish decor, utilized the finest silver, china and crystal, and also provided top-level service to their dignified guests. To this day, you will find The Greenbrier lives up to this lofty billing, and even more.

The history of the resort dates back to 1778 when the waters of the sulphur springs were found to have therapeutic healing powers. In the early 1800's there was a cottage community built surrounding the springs. As the popularity of the springs became known, a "modern" hotel was constructed, The Old White, which in 1910 was renamed The Greenbrier when it was purchased by the Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad. Throughout its history, The Greenbrier has served as a military hospital and headquarters for the Confederacy the first two years of the "War Between the States". Later, during World War II, the resort was used as an internment center for German and Japanese diplomats and their families, until again being converted into a military hospital. After the war, needless to say, much work was needed to restore the lustre of this grand dame...how about 30 miles of carpeting, 45,000 yards of fabric, 40,000 gallons of paint, 15,000 rolls of wallpaper and 34,567 individual decorative and furniture items with each piece tagged for a specific room. All this was done under the supervision of Dorothy Draper and Company, the well renowned New York design house.

Today, you will find the entire 672 rooms of the resort to be in meticulous condition under standards most hotels cannot maintain. As you drive down the graceful, flower-lined entry to the hotel, you will know The Greenbrier is very special. Once inside The Main Lobby, you feel the splendor and elegance brought about by the soaring ceilings, tasteful antiques and historic paintings.

You will find the accommodations at the resort to be very spacious with high ceilings and magnificent furnishings. To this day, Carlton Varney, president of Dorothy Draper and Company oversees every aspect of the interior design of the property to ensure the continuous maintenance of standards the property has long been known for. For a special treat, I would recommend staying in one of the 30 cottages or 73 guest and estate houses on the property, each with their unique decor and setting.

As I have noted before, at special resorts such as this, the partaking of meals are an occasion meant to be highly enjoyed with outstanding cuisine and impeccable service. You will find The Greenbrier to be at the top in providing for this. Whether it be a meal in the elegant Main Dining Room, an intimate dinner in The Tavern Room (specializing in American cuisine, fresh seafood and rotisserie delights prepared around their open kitchen), or a casual meal in Draper's Cafe or Sam Snead's at the Golf Club, you will be pleasantly satisfied.

The Greenbrier Culinary Apprenticeship Program is specially designed to train American chefs and to provide the resort with a consistent staff of highly trained culinarians, many of whom are local residents who have completed the intensive three year program.

Always open to new ideas, the staff, working in conjunction with their Clinic nutritionist has developed an outstanding Light cuisine of healthy entrees with approximately one-third the calories and one half the sodium of normal restaurant meals. That's great news for my voracious appetite.

Even cocktails at The Greenbrier are special. A visit to the famous, historic Old White Club is a must for libations, conversation and dancing after your wonderful dinner. One should also stop by the cool, colorful Rhododendron Lounge adjacent to the spectacular indoor pool, and after a round of golf, Slammin' Sammy's which is a well-done casual sports bar. Speaking of Sam Snead, he is still well and serves as the Golf Professional Emeritus at The Greenbrier where the resort recently opened the Sam Snead Museum. If you are looking for a game, Sam is still known to "pick a pigeon" or two, so bring your wallet. If you are more sensible, just enjoy the lush beauty of the three outstanding courses at the resort, The Greenbrier Course, with its rolling fairways and well guarded multi tier greens; The Old White Course, a 1910 circa delight with severely sloped greens and deep fairway and greenside bunkers; or the more "forgiving" Lakeside Course with larger, less undulated greens and less severe traps, but only after you have escaped the wrath of Neptune awaiting your errant tee shot.

I could not imagine anyone visiting The Greenbrier without partaking in the pleasures of their 29,000 square foot Spa. With over 219 years of experience in pampering guests, The Spa is at the forefront of American facilities and provide top service in their numerous and legendary spa treatments available.

If you find yourself bored at the resort, better check yourself into the famous Greenbrier Clinic for a complete physical. In addition to golf, The Spa and dining, the resort also offers horseback and carriage rides, tennis on their 20 courts, bowling, the Falconry Academy, formal croquet, the Gun Club and shooting preserve, fishing and a menagerie of other outdoor activities. If shopping is your sport of choice, the Gallery of Shops in the hotel's lower level will keep you busy for quite a while.

Lest we forget, The Greenbrier was the secret home of "Project Greek Island" which was the relocation area designed to accommodate both the U.S. Senate and House in the event of nuclear war. This 112,000 square foot facility buried 720 feet into the hillside beneath the West Virginia Wing was to allow the powers of government to operate if any nuclear tragedy were to occur. When a major newspaper exposed the facility in 1992, the facility began a phase out period of the bunker, but quite a bit of it remains untouched today.

In closing, I would be remiss if I did not comment about the excellent and personable staff of the resort. This staff of 1,600 individuals all have a genuine way of making your stay there even more enjoyable. I tip my hat to these nice folks.

For more information about a visit to The Greenbrier, you can peruse their Web site at: www.greenbrier.com or you may call 800-852-5440.

Crier Media Group, Inc | 112 South Patrick Street, Alexandria, Virginia 22314 | 703.836.0132 | office@oldtowncrier.com

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