Located in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain in Madison County, DuCard Vineyards believes that since the winery is based in nature, they have a responsibility to be good stewards of the land and surrounding environment. Though I am not terribly superstitious, I thought the fact that a wild turkey crossed the road just before we arrived at DuCard Winery was a good omen for finding a new wine to pair with Christmas Dinner (It may not have been as good an omen for the turkey).
Much has been made of the environmentally friendly design DuCard Vineyards put into their winery. The floors were reclaimed from an old barn on the property and are rich in their depth and character. The solar panels provide more than enough electricity on sunny days to operate the winery. When it clouds up the winery goes to regular electric power.
During the 2011 VA-1 Virginia Tourism Summit, DuCard and Cooper Vineyards were both recognized by Virginia Green as Green Travel Leaders. Not only does DuCard participate in green building techniques such as solar paneling and using local and recycled products, they also emphasize giving back to the community. They use their resources to help train locals in vineyard operations and management through a season long “adopt-a-row” Canopy Management class for the viticulture and enology program of Piedmont Virginia Community College.
In a recent interview with The Daily Progress, Scott Ellif, owner of DuCard Vineyards said he never thought he would be in the wine business. “I say this is a hobby gone wild” Ellif told the Progress, “I’m a suburban kid from Chicago and didn’t know what the extension service was or the Farm Bureau.”
Based on the quality of his wines, Ellif was a quick study. Once he determined the old orchard land he had initially purchased for a weekend getaway was on prime soil for viticulture, he took the plunge. At first he sold the fruit to other Virginia wineries but in time he started holding back a little bit of fruit for his home winemaking. Soon he was making enough to sell to friends and family and it just snowballed into DuCard Vineyards.
Pulling into the gravel covered parking lot, the winery sits low on the horizon with tapestry of autumn color covering the Blue Ridge Mountains in the near distance. Entering the tasting room on a blustery day, visitors are greeted by rich leather over stuffed sofa in front of a crackling fire in the stone field fireplace.
Bellying up to the tasting bar, the first wine in the line was the 2010 Viognier. This vintage was aged in neutral oak barrels which provided the wine a nice backbone but not imparting significant tannins. The honeysuckle filled nose leads to a wildflower filled attack that is not as bright as anticipated. The mid-palate widens nicely remaining true to the tropical theme. The firm finish is highlighted with fresh ripe peach tones.
The sweeter Gibson Hollow White (1.2% residual sugar) is a Viognier based blend that also includes Vidal Blanc. Stainless steel fermentation provides crisp, sharp attack and a bright clean finish. AN excellent aperitif this would also pair well with a cheese course.
Interestingly, DuCard’s 2nd Corps is done very much in the same style as the Gibson Hollow. This wine commemorates the 150th anniversary of the start of the Civil War in Virginia. It's named for Stonewall Jackson, who marched his 2nd Corps of 25,000 men over the mountains just around the corner - on his way to the Battle of Fredericksburg. It has a higher residual sugar (2%) and perhaps because of this change in acidity the balance of flavors is more pronounced in the 2nd Corps.
Leading the line for the red wines at DuCard is the 2009 Cabernet Franc. This wine spent just over 12 months in French oak. The nose is filled with cherry tones and hints of white pepper. The red cherry attack dissipates nicely into a wide midpalate with undercurrents of cedar; the gently tannic finish lingers nicely on the rear of the palate with swirls of licorice and plum.
One of the natural streams that run through the edge of the vineyards is named Popham Run. In homage to this life giving stream, the winery created a red blend Popham Run Red. The 2009 vintage of this wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot features a strawberry filled nose. The mid-palate expands nicely exposing pepper tones and cascading dark fruit. The finish lingers nicely as well.
The flagship of the DuCard red program, in this writer’s eyes, is the 2009 Petit Verdot. In the glass the wine has a deep mysterious core and dark maroon color. The nose is a touch closed and while providing just a hint of plum and pepper really does not provide much of a hint to the wine within. The attack is muted but filled with plum and anise. The expansive mid-palate opens up with licorice tones. The finish lingers on the back of the palate with hints of chocolate and tobacco. This wine will only improve with proper cellaring. I’d encourage folks to hold this wine for at least 24 month prior to opening.
The sweet Virginee Vidal Blanc comes in at a whopping 8% residual sugar this viscose dessert wine features a full peach nose. I would contract this wine with dessert by serving a lightly crusted pear tart with a touch of cinnamon.
All in all, I think the gentle tannic structure of the Popham Run Red wins a place on my Christmas Dinner table. The cherry undertones will pair exceedingly well with turkey and cranberry sauce. Located just outside the Shenandoah National Park, DuCard provides a welcome respite for weary hikers and leaf peepers. Any hiking trip to Old Rag Mountain would be enhanced by a visit to this “hobby gone wild”.
Neil Williamson is the Chairman of the Virginia Wine Club Tasting Panel and Editor of The Virginia Wine Journal. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
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